Befriending Belgium
Whisked through Belgium by a family of natives, their personal anecdotes quickly transformed an unfamiliar place into an old friend.
Photo by Miguel Martins, via Unsplash.
Last winter I was given a whirlwind tour through three Belgian cities guided by a family friend based in Antwerp. With no plans to make and no place else to be, we made our way from London to Brussels, from Brussels to Antwerp, and from Antwerp to Ghent in just three days. Such brief encounters with new places force the hungry traveller to be nowhere but the present, never allowing enough time to take anything for granted but with ample opportunity to notice all of the beautiful details. The glint of morning light on gold-gilded buildings and the distinct scalloped roofs on a sun-soaked Antwerp Saturday; the brightly lit streets of Brussels and basking in the glow of the Grand Place by night; shiny wet cobblestone roads and bridges of weathered but picturesque Ghent. Punctuated with artistic touches, intricate architecture, and undeniable charisma, Belgium is objectively lovely.
Photo by Atahan, via Unsplash.
The chance to see any new country through local eyes is always a special privilege, so Belgium’s beauty and charm was only accentuated by our company: a family of natives who narrated the weekend with stories of each city. Alternating between sharing favourite personal memories and local folklore or history, their rendition of famous Belgian landmarks and hidden gems alike easily topped any guided tour on the market. The best way to get to know a stranger, after all, is through a mutual friend.
Sharing baskets of chips and frothy pints in the cosy Antwerp pub where our host is a local and wandering through the Ghent canals with warm stall-bought waffles in hand, the Belgian preference for comfort food eaten leisurely paired perfectly with the storytelling that conducted our movements through each city. Between long brunches and late dinners, stories unfolded around us about everything from university life in beautiful Ghent to its tumultuous history; from the experience of little girls growing up outside of Antwerp to the age-old folktale that gives the city its name. Hearing these anecdotes and histories told from a local perspective was the key to a swift introduction to Belgian lore, ways of life, and traditions which I became so quickly fond of.
Belgium felt cosy and comfortable no matter where I found myself, and I have an inkling as to why. Any place would be quintessentially special beneath the arm of a good friend, and a simple personal touch can make a strange new city feel like someone who has your back, who leads the way, who you can count on for a good time. Befriending a local raconteur is often all you need to gain access to the storybook of a new place – the bits of its past that are widely remembered, the memories for which is serves as a familiar backdrop, all the little nuances that invite us to know it better, getting to know it as we would a new friend.
A few favourites…
When in French-speaking Brussels, do as the French do and start your day with a pastry from Aux Merveilleux du Fred, where you can watch (and smell) brioche buns and meringue being baked from scratch.
Over a glass of De Konnick APA in Café Den Engel, an Antwerp favourite across from the single-towered cathedral of the central square, ask a local to tell you the city’s famous folktale, a legend about a hand-cutting giant which gives the city its name.
Wander past beautiful fashion and home boutiques to the Toneelhuis, Antwerp’s small but beautiful theatre house. Take your pick between the crowded glass cafe on the ground floor, ambient with jazz music and perfect for people watching, or the stunning foyer bar on the second level, one of the grandest rooms I’ve ever sat inside.
Find the Ghent bar that proudly serves nothing but beer (500 types, to be exact) and prepare to sacrifice a shoe as a security deposit for brews served in an elaborate glass.
Try Cuberdons, Ghent’s famous candy, which I find a bit soapy but are a local favourite – so much so that companies have fought for years over who first produced the traditional sweet.
Photos by Libby Penner, via Unsplash.
