Idiosyncrasy in Santorini
How do you take on the task of discovering nuance in pristine, luxurious, whitewashed Santorini? You look for the cracks where the colour seeps in.
Photo by Ronan Lavery, via Unsplash.
Traveling to a place like Santorini is something like picking up a classic novel – chances are you’ve heard of it before, and most often, someone else has already read and raved about it. Well-known, well-loved experiences – whether that be a famous book or a frequented travel destination – tend to come to mind first when deciding where next to venture. But often, unintentionally and sometimes without our awareness, we board a plane to someplace new with a pre-emptive expectations, a postcard-worthy picture of what it will be like already crisp in our minds. So how does one take on the task of writing about a place that many have been before, or at least feel as though they have? You already know the minimalistic gleaming white concrete, the sweeping mountainside sunset views, the crystal blue Mediterranean waters as well as I do.
Photo by Micaela Marianthi, via Unsplash.
Santorini is an island with a population of fifteen thousand people but accepts two million visitors to its picture-perfect beaches and pristine villas every year. It was strange for me to find myself once again in a place where foreigners outnumber the locals by such a jarring ratio. It had been a while since I had visited such a touristic destination, since I have lately preferred travelling to places where foreigners are a small minority compared to locals. But our Airbnb host Manolis and his wife and son immediately made the group of us – family, friends and I – feel like their personal guests. Overstuffing us with breakfast, offering to drive out of the way to lookout points just so we could see the island’s most impressive views, and ensuring we were always comfortable, their hospitality was unusual, unforgettable, and quintessentially Greek. Even surrounded by foreign tourists speaking incomprehensible tongues, even when the other locals live a measurable distance away, even when the island is washed white by our efforts to make our experience match those on Instagram, it amazed me that a family like this managed to retain a culture that is truly homegrown.
It would seem that authenticity might be scarce in a place like Santorini, but I was pleasantly surprised with the prevalence of the Greek culture coursing through the island through people like this family. It’s true that authenticity ‘sells’ as a brand and marketing ploy, but the Greeks have a certain air about them that is so no-nonsense, up front and unapologetic that the men and women pulling the strings to make each Instagram-worthy moment possible are seldom hidden behind the screen. They are the key to appreciating Santorini for both the beautifully luxe as well as simply enjoyable experience it has to offer. Ask them what this place means to them; even those who helped build it are baffled by its beauty, and this sense of awe is something we have in common. Wait and see how their home opens to you, just as it is, and welcomes you as one of their own even just for a little while.
A Unique Take on The Santorini Holiday
Some recommendations for finding a little idiosyncrasy on the much-loved island in the sun are as follows:
Photo by Alexander Dinamarca, via Unsplash.
Throw a towel down on the smooth pebbles of Kamari beach, swim in the perfect waters of the bay, and grab a strong cocktail from the beach bar – if you’re lucky you’ll meet Andreas, possibly the most careful mixologist and the friendliest bartender on the island.
Have dinner at Yalos beach restaurant, built into a cavity in the cliffside that was gifted to the owner by his grandfather. Delicious traditional food with a twist, amazing cocktails and even better hospitality can all be enjoyed while sitting on the inside of an old fishing boat propped on its side. A beautiful bohemian spot to eat and drink under the stars, with the ocean waves adding the perfect soundtrack.
If you’re interested in a more luxe experience, have a sunset meal or cocktails at OVAC restaurant at the stunning Cavo Taago resort. Perched on one of the island’s high peaks, clouds flooding the valley below and one of most perfect sunsets I’ve ever seen are visible from the restaurant’s floor to ceiling windows. The menu reflects the thoughtfully-decorated modern space with authentic touches, and, although pricey, the ambience was surprisingly vibrant. A truly spectacular meal was accompanied by a white suit-fitted crooner’s rendition of jazz classics that had the entire restaurant singing along.
Visit (or simply read about) Akrotiri, the Bronze Age settlement buried in volcanic ash which preserves remarkable mosaics and finds from the 16th century BCE – think of it as a much older Greek Pompeii.
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